On Sunday, I totally trashed the restaurant at Spritmuseum in Wineweek. The restaurant experience was disappointing, and to be honest did not do any justice to the great reputation that the place has gathered during the year. I am an active Yelper and many people whom I respect to deliver reliable reviews had praised it. Yelp seldom fails me so I am still at awe. But lets do a drill-down and lay the different arguments on the table. I am kind of hoping that n the end of this post I can conclude that it was not that bad after all.
Starting with the drinks, I think that the restaurant definitely gets points for having Laherte Freres as their house champagne. Laherte is a small to mid-sized grower producer. I am quite fond of their style and you need to know something about champagne to make this good of a choice for your house bubbly. So one point (+) to that. What really killed it for me were the glasses. I just cant get over the fact that they served the wines from such clunky and un-elegant tableware. This is the museum of alcohol, they should know how to serve wine. This definitely deserves a minus (-). So the score is 1-1.
The wine selection is general featured quite a lot of nature wines (+), but the options by glass were too few. Like two whites, three reds, one rose and one orange wine (-). All in our party were not drinking so we did not consider the list by the bottle (I seldom do anyway as I want to taste several different drinks). What gets a big plus though (+) is the tea menu. For 210kr you could order a nice non-alcoholic drinks flight featuring teas, home made sodas and other exciting drinks.
There were two options for menus: the vegetarian and the omnivore. Both featured eight courses for ~800kr. That’s not too bad, but I would not say the price-level is cheap. But I am willing to keep this aspect neutral. A plus for equality between meat and vegetarian menus (+), both were quite exciting and well considered. We took one of each to be able to taste a wider range of dishes.
I will not go into the different dishes, but the food was not outstanding. There was nothing really wrong with it, but I just did not get any kicks from it. A minus for many of the ingredients being used in several dishes (-). I think kale, beet and algae showed up in some form in several of the courses. Another minus comes from one of the dishes being really bad (-). The last dish, the yeast souffle with algae powder was absolutely horrible. The duck and sweetbread in the omnivore menu were definitely the best. Perhaps I can be a bit optimistic and give a plus for that (+).
And here is where this review will really turn south. The dinner lasted for….wait for it….four hours! Four hours, how is that even possible? It was Saturday night and we were not really in a hurry. However, we waited for each dish approximately 30 min. As i is fine dining, and the courses are small, that was way too long. I have had fourteen course menus in three hours and not had a problem with the pace. So a big minus for the speed (-). Additionally the service was quite disinterested. No one came to refill our water or ask if we would like another glass of wine. I had to waive the staff over to be able to get another drink (-). We also received no apology what-so-ever for the long dinner, no questions regarding a need for a taxi, nothing (-)! The service was friendly, but at the level I would expect at a chain restaurant like Vapiano.
So the final score is five plus (5+) and seven minus (7-). I guess this proves that just by improving the service, Spritmuseum would get up from the ditch. I very much hope that they see these defects well in time to steer the boat back on the right road again.
Wishing you all a great weekend!