I recently wrote about how big brand champagne has long since divorced what comes from the ground. The aspiration of producing the same product batch after batch requires manipulation of the years produce with a mix of wine from the previous vintages as well as an addition of sugar (to hide some of the taste of the grape). Well here is a champagne that is exactly the opposite: Georges Laval Cumieres Premier Cru Brut Nature.
This is again one of these producers that have a website only in French. However, using google translate I could find out some basic information. The family has a long history in Cumieres (5km from Epernay) with documented vineyard-growing activity since 1694. Today, the house is managed by Vincent Laval. The small grower-producer has only 2,5 hectares of vines and the grapes are organically farmed since 1971. The output of the production is only around 15 000 bottles a year. That’s small..I fell lucky to have found a bottle.
The Cumieres Premier Cru Brut Nature is a beautiful expression of what the ground can offer with zero dosage to manipulate the taste. It has yeasty character and a mineral infused dry finish. The nose is complex and layered with baked apples, spiced pears, pepper and baking spices, mineral tones and some earth notes. The price, according to Cellar Tracker, averages around 70€, but I would expect to be able to buy it for a bit less. The monopoly sells it in the special order-selection for around 60€. It is a bit on the pricey side, but I would still loosen the wallet for this one. The quality of the wine is a 4(/5) and the quality for money 3(/5).