I often get questions about Swedish cuisine – what is it besides meatballs? And furthermore, where can you eat something Swedish? Stockholm, as many big cities, cater to a vast variety of styles of food, and a traditional and hearty Swedish menu has not been trending. The restaurant scene is dominated by New Nordic, Asia inspired and French bistro -styles, as well as vegetarian and vegan aspirations. None of these, except for perhaps New Nordic, is very Swedish. There are a few restaurants though I can recommend for a Swedish experience. Bistro Oaxen Slip on Djurgården island is one of them. And here are some reasons why.
Oaxen Slip is the “back pocket” of two Michelin-starred Oaxen Krog, which is the only two-star restaurant in Stockholm. The term back pocket is a bit misguiding here, Oaxen Slip is not a small add-on to Oaxen Krog, it dominates the facade and whole ground floor of the building. Additionally Oaxen Slip has its own accreditation in the Michelin guide: in 2017 it received a bib gourmande. Slip is the simple bistro serving a la carte, offering tastes from the same luxurious kitchen as Krog. The menu consists of Swedish bistro fare, hearty and uncomplicated dishes, many of which are meant to be shared. There are some inspirations from other parts of the world, as well as sharing plates is not very Swedish, however, if you want to get a taste of Swedish seasonal ingredients, Oaxen Slip is the place to be. Right now the menu is dominated by fish as well as new potatoes and locally grown tomatoes, however in the fall there will be more hearty broths with game and root vegetables.
Oaxen Slip also has a decent wine list. Its nature wine -inspired. Not all-in nature, but at least with aspirations for wines from small producers using ecological growing methods. The selection by the glass is quite traditional, with some Xarello from Spain, Riesling Kabinet from Mosel and Chablis from Bourgogne. They have four different sparklings by the glass. The house champagne is Chartogne-Taillet Saint Anne which is a great, juicy entry level. All wines are priced between 100 and 200 SEK, which is an average for Stockholm. To summarize, there is something for everyone, but don’t expect anything exciting.
We ordered two mains and two sides to share. It was a perfect amount of food for two. Quality was ok. Not great; the suckling pig for example was a bit dry. However, all in all, a solid meal. Price level for mains was between 200 and 300 SEK.
We walked out of the restaurant pleased and tummies full. The best part wasn’t really the food or the wine (I know where to get better), but Oaxen is quite a pleasant restaurant to visit in the summer time. As the pictures reveal, there are high, full-wall widows letting in a plenty of light. The terrace is big and opens up to the Swedish archipelago..and a parking lot, but the archipelago is still nice. The service, this time, was very friendly and fast. Oaxen Slip will definitely go on my “tourist tips” -list, right after the Flyig Elk.