The last day of the year, and I am browsing pictures from 2016. I guess this is a typical post for a lazy blogger, reading old posts and thinking of which stories are worth revisiting. Looking back, it seems like a lifetime since these moments were the present: visiting Champagne, enjoying the views over Valtellina valley and all those lovely dinners in Stockholm. Life starts sprinting when you turn 30 (now I’m already 34), and there doesn’t seem to be any way to slow it down. I guess it is that you really start knowing yourself and what you like after a certain age, so better just buckle up and enjoy the ride. Continue reading “Goodbye 2016”
When planning our recent trip to Italy, we were quite late in the game. We had only scheduled to spend a day at Mamete Prevostini, and the rest of the trip was just open. wide open. No visits no restaurant reservation, nothing. Does not sound like us at all. However, as it turned out, being spontaneous was not a bad thing. The trip to Valtellina was one of the highlights of the year. Following a tip from a friend, we were lucky enough to be able to book a last minute visit to famous local nebbiolo producer ARPEPE. Thank you Atte for the recommendation!
ARPEPE winery was started in 1984 by Arturo Pelizzatti Perego, who took on tending to his familys beautiful, but challenging terraced vineyards in the valley of Valtellina. As I have written before, the hills in Valtellina are steep and rocky. All of the work is done by hand: picking as well as carrying the grapes in small baskets downhill to the winery. Arturos idea from the start was to focus on growing high quality grapes and long aging of the wines. For realising his vision, he needed patience. Arturo waited for six harvests before releasing his first wine. Today the ARPEPE is managed by Arturos children: Isabella, Emanuele and Guido.
It was a sunny morning when we pulled into the driveway of ARPEPE in the village of Sondrio. The facilities appeared to be in the middle of the town, but when arriving we were face to face with the steep vineyard, rising up the north hill. We were greeted by Arturos daughter Isabella, who was our guide for the morning. As we were late in booking, we did not really have a lot of time for touring in the production, but we were able to peek in quickly. The winery is actually located under the vineard, carved into the rock on the base of the hill. The most noticeable feature in the winery was the fermentation vats or rather barrels. They are large wood vessels holding 50 HL of wine. The mix of oak, chestnut and acacia is the same as is used for the aging (barrels) of the wines. Isabella also told us that they are extremely picky when it comes to what wine is made from each plot and harvest. Some years ARPEPE has only made their entry-level easy to drink table wine Rosso di Valtellina, as the output has not reached the quality or yield for making a suitable vintage.
ARPEPE has vineyards in three of five parts of Valtellina: Inferno, Sassella and Grumello. All areas have a differing terroir, thus resulting in a different type of wine. Another interesting detail is that ARPEPE has at least ten different clones of nebbiolo growing in their vineyards. They like trying out new clones to see how the vines develop in the challenging high-altitude environment. Christina and her brothers replace one vine at a time, so the diversity in the fields is rich and the siblings believe it contributes to the richness of the wine. More about the terroir in my post on Wineweek 90. ARPEPE makes a separate vintage from each area. The type of vintages they make depends completely on the assesment on the harvest harvest. The younger vintages are released five years after the harvest and the old ones after nine. ARPEPE chooses which (youg or old) the yield is used for, it is one or the other (or none). Not both.
After the tour we moved into the beautiful building next to the vineyards, which is the ARPEPE office and tasting room. It is designed by Isabellas architecht husband. The interior is seemingly bathing in light. I really loved it (and the light was perfect for taking good pictures). We tasted alltogether four wines: the Rosso, the young Grumello Rocca de Piro 2011, the Grumello Buon Consiglia 2007 and the il Pettirosso 1999. What really took me was the freshness of all of their wines. Amazing that even the -99 had no signs of stuffiness what so ever. From young to old, the nebbiolos had a nice light and spicy character, that I now recognize as the signature style of Valtellina. Prices we felt were very reasonable, ranging from around 15€ for the entry-level Rosso to ~40€ something for the Ultimi Racci which is the sforzato-type (but not a sforzato!) intense top of the line bottle. We walked out with a nice mixed box to take home.
I am very keen on writing more about the ARPEPE wines, but I will take rather as proper reviews as opposed a quick walk through in this post. Each of the ARPEPE wine deserve to be in the spotlight. If you are interested in a visit, ARPEPE is happy to receive guests as long as you give them a few weeks notice. You can find the contact details for the winery at their homepage.
Thank you ARPEPE and Isabella for the wonderful visit.
The past week we have been in Italy. Mainly working, visiting vineyards north of Milan in Valtellina. We also spent a day in Milan, walking past attractions and taking photos (and catching Pokemon – I know, pathetic!). We have been avoiding Italy as a holiday as well as a wine destination. We have found it too touristic and poor when it comes to service culture (mainly due to the rude service you get). Italian wines are also usually too aromatic and “thick” for our taste. Not saying they are bad, but just not our style. However, with the discovery of the perfect nebbiolos from Mamete Prevostini, we decided to give Italy a try and organized this trip to Valtellina to visit vineyards and talk some business. As we always want to know a little bit more about where our wines come from (local vibe and cuisine), we decided to extend our stay with a few days of vacation. After two and a half days of touring in the region, I can say without any exaggeration, Valtellina is one of the best wine destinations I have ever visited in my life. Italy has been reborn in my mind. Continue reading “Wineweek 90: To Valtellina and Back”