This wineweek, will unfortunately be a bit short. I need to be a bit boring and prioritize. There is a pile of work on my table, that is not going to diminish by me blogging about wine. God, I wish it would. However, I have one great café experience and two wine recommendations to share. So I will just pretend for ten minutes that that to-do list doesn’t exist. Continue reading “Wineweek 149: Petite France”
It is a calm and humid morning in Champagne as we climb into a car taking us to Chavot. We have a booked tour and tasting at Laherte Frères, one of my favorite grower producers in Champagne. I say favorite so often, that what is special about this one? In addition to having some excellent entry level champagnes, Laherte Frères has a fairly rare cuvée in their selection, Les 7. It is a blend of all seven grapes allowed to be used for champagne. Continue reading “The Seven Varieties of Laherte Frères”
On Sunday, I totally trashed the restaurant at Spritmuseum in Wineweek. The restaurant experience was disappointing, and to be honest did not do any justice to the great reputation that the place has gathered during the year. I am an active Yelper and many people whom I respect to deliver reliable reviews had praised it. Yelp seldom fails me so I am still at awe. But lets do a drill-down and lay the different arguments on the table. I am kind of hoping that n the end of this post I can conclude that it was not that bad after all. Continue reading “The Drilldown on Spritmuseum”
Again, she is reviewing Champagne! Yes, I am a sucker for it, and not least due to Champagne taking a turn back to what it was hundreds of years ago. I am a great fan of natural flavors that come from good care of the vines and terroir (and low dosage). You truly taste it in the wine, the land and the soil, and that is why the mass market will never be my thing. I am not so interested in the wine tasting the same from year to year, I am curious about what each year has to offer.
Laherte Frères is one of my favorite growers. Their philosophy is to offer a taste of the terroir emphasizing the human touch in their winemaking. They are not certified as bio-dynamic, but use as many natural techniques as possible. The priority is the quality, not the quantity.
“Les 7” is a ticket for a ride back in time. It is comprised of a blend of all seven permitted grape varieties in Champagne: Fromenteau, Arbanne, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Petit Meslier and exhibits a taste from 250 years ago. The dosage is low (4g/l) to make sure no characteristics of the wine are hidden. The grapes are grown on a single plot in Chavot. They undergo a natural alcoholic fermentation in old Burgundy barrels and the wine is a Solera, a blending of several years (this specific bottle 2005-2011).
The nose is has light toastiness, lemon peel and some flowery notes. Acacia perhaps. The bubbles are persistent but not aggressive. When opened, the taste is quite overpowering with grapefruit acidity. however, after a while it gathers more notes of bread dough and the mouth feel softens. The wine has a long and classy finish and is absolutely lovely with the matured Comte cheese we have chosen as an appetizer. The characteristics of the wine remind me of another favorite bubbly, the Five Sens from Olivier Horiot. I could imagine this a white wine, just with lovely bubbles and acidity.
This is a bottle we picked up in London over new year. We were browsing around in the Sampler (review here), and I just happened to ask if they know the wine (as they often sell other Laherte Freres wines). The shopkeeper was pleased, as he had one more bottle for sale, under the counter. We paid around 70£ for it, but I did feel that it was a fair price. It is quite unique and looking at the production, I can understand that having a dedicated plot and blending several soleras requires some more investment from the winemaker than an average cuvee. From quality perspective the wine is a 4 (I think its fabulous), however value for money a 3. I would definitely recommend to give it a try, but perhaps have a bottle before you buy the case.