I get an ominous chill from the title of the post “Star in the Woods”, like “the cabin in the woods” – PM & Vänner is not quite like that. Quite the opposite, it is one of the warmest restaurants I have ever been to. Literally. The restaurant is located in the small-ish city of Växjö in Southern Sweden (thus I call it the woods). It has one Michelin star and it is one of five restaurants in the world granted the Wine Spectator Grand Award in 2017 (ONE OF FIVE!!). Continue reading “The Star in the Woods”
Saturday morning I sat on a long distance train without knowing where I am getting off. It was a train from Stockholm to Copenhagen, stopping on the way in Norrköping, Linköping and Alvesta. Would it be one of those stops, or perhaps the end station Copenhagen? M just told me that we would be sitting on the the train for ours, but no hint on how many. It is my birthday today, and my present was a surprise one night trips somewhere. In my mind I had already thought of so many options, but once we sat on the train, most of the list got erased. The only guess left was Daniel Berlin deep down in Skåne, a hour and a half from Malmö; but M shot that down pretty soon after we passed Linköping. Browsing the Michelin guide for Sweden I made my last attempt at a guess – are we perhaps going to Växjö (a city I had not even heard of before that day)? The answer was yes! Continue reading “Wineweek 150: Växjö in Colors”
This morning – the first proper snowfall of the year. Sorry, I don’t have any pictures of it. Me and my camera have remained happily indoors; drinking tea and eating chocolate. But I have a few other cool shots to show you from yesterdays visit to AB.Cafe for brunch and Vina wine bar for dinner. I also did some window shopping in the center. Even though we do not spend Christmas in Sweden, I still like getting a few small gifts for the fam. And the best place to find nice stuff is Designtorget, that carries works of many Swedish designers – big and small. Continue reading “Wineweek 105: The First Snow”
Walburgis Night aka Valborg in Swedish is celebrated every year on the 30th of April. The day is followed by May 1st Labor day, which in many countries is a day off. In Finland, Valborg is a huge party for the spring. Everyone is out, regardless of the weather, pretending that it is warmer than it actually is. Students get drunk and families with children go out for a picnic (and have sparkling wine). There are a lot of people out with balloons and funny hats both on Walburgis night as well as Labor day. It’s quite crazy. Finnish Valborg is definitely worth experiencing once, preferably young when you have the energy to party all night. Continue reading “Wineweek 77: Valborg”
I have finally realized why I am always so inclined to start my weekly posts with the weather. It is because I have now lived two years in Stockholm and I am becoming more Swedish by the day. How do I come to this conclusion? This week I was drafting a post for my travel site (www.tripsteri.fi) about how to talk with a swede. For that purpose, I also asked about five to ten of my friends and colleagues about topics they discuss both with friends and strangers. The first thing on everyone’s lips was the weather. I even think someone made a joke that the Swedes have become the British of the north.
The main content of my writing was about the discussion topics in Sweden being very general, to make sure you do not offend anyone. If one wants to discuss something serious, like politics, one must make a careful note in the start of the conversation about being slightly bothered regarding serious discussions being such a taboo. This way you make it clear you know what you are getting into. Well, wine is not a serious topic. At least it is not for me. The Swedes I talk to about wine always make a note though, that they know nothing about it. This is also a warm-up to make sure I do not take the discussion too seriously (and do not get offended). Every country have their rituals.
This week I have unfortunately been sick. I have caught the flu. My throat is very sore, and I feel drowsy. Luckily I have not lost that much of my palate, as we had our customer champagne tasting on Saturday. We invited all of our customers who ordered at our spring tasting to sample a range of private label bubblies from the UK. Now, I will write a separate post on the tasting. But just as a quick sum-up: we tasted seven wines, four of them were private label champagnes, two of them were from the original producers, and one was not a champagne at all, it was a cava (nobody guessed that though). We did the tasting blind to be able to have as objective results as possible.
The coming week will be very exciting. We will be flying to Tokyo for a five day food trip. Why Tokyo? The currency exchange rate is right now very favorable. We will be doing quite many nice restaurants and all of them for a fairly affordable price. For the drinks section, we will be trying out some local rice wine, Sake. So if you have any Sake tips, please let me know. We will of course have a look around for wine as well (as always), but I really doubt that it is that interesting. Who knows, I have been surprised before. We have quite a hectic schedule the coming week, so I will probably not be writing that much. Let’s see what I can conjure during the long flight from Copenhagen. And of course I will be posting photos. October is not the most beautiful month of the year, but Tokyo is so colorful that it really doesn’t matter.
That was all the wine action for this week. Next time I will be posting, it will be from the land of the rising sun. Have a great week you all!
I have a somewhat special relationship with this place. For the year and a half or so that I l lived in Malmö it was my go to place. I passed it on my 5 minute walk from home to the office everyday and almost always went in there for a cup to go. Being from Stockholm it is not always that one is met with great friendliness and warmth in Skåne (or when I think of it not in many places outside Stockholm at all) but I always loved the friendly and relaxed atmosphere here. The clientele was and is extremely hipster so if you are allergic to that go elsewhere. For me the good coffee makes me overcome my aversion to hipsters. The coffee has always been very consistent high quality and that is what I really like here. I do not believe I have ever had a bad cup of coffee in this place. That said, I do also seldom come away feeling as it is the best cup I ever had either but they are really solid.
These days they roast their own coffee and they are really good. They do not have the widest range but always some good stuff. At the coffee bar I would mainly go for the espresso based beverages as the skilled baristas here really know how to use the espresso machine. There are also filter coffees available and those are pretty good as well.
Food wise there is basic breakfast stuff as well as pastries and cookies. There are no full meals so more a place to stop by for a cup and a small bite and then be on your way. In a sense the vibe is a bit like what an Italian espresso bar would be if they served good coffee.It is fairly small so not the place to hang out for a long time and not really enough space to comfortably work or so but still one of the top spots in Malmö for coffee and good service.
So how does it rate:
Coffee quality: 4
Ambiance and service: 4
Vs local competition: 4.5
One of my favorite coffee bars in Stockholm belong to the chain Espresso House. They do perhaps not in general contribute to the great coffee scene but rather bringing up the average quality be serving a decent cup. The location in Hötorgshallen is however their showroom and have both better coffee and more skilled baristas than their other locations. Hötorgshallen is a food hall in the center of Stockholm and this café is on the ground floor alongside several other restaurants and cafés and downstairs in the basement there are numerous vendors selling cheese, meat, vegetables, nuts, spices and many other things (there is even a Finnish specialty food store). In general a nice place to browse but it also means a lot of people moving through there so even if there is free wifi and some space to sit at Espresso house it is still not a really great place to hang out for a long period of time. The staff are however very knowledgeable and friendly so still like the place.
The main thing is however the coffee. As all Espresso house they have coffee roasted by Solberg & Hansen but in addition to the normal range of five different coffees to select from they have an additional three to five different ones. Usually these ones are more interesting and smaller lots. All coffees can be ordered as hand-brews and are very nicely prepared. The espresso based beverages are also good but I am not a super-fan of their espresso blend.
The food selection is virtually non-existent, only some cakes and pastries but they do kindly offer to grab some food from the other places and still sit and eat it at the tables at Espresso House.
So how does it rate:
Coffee quality: 4
Ambiance and service: 3.5
Vs local competition: 4.5
There are only a handful of wine bars in Stockholm that I take seriously (or any city for that matter). I suspect that there is just not enough wine crowd here in Stockholm to keep that many places profitable. As Talk-A-Vino wrote in his blog recently, people seem to think that wine requires some special kind of knowledge for people to feel comfortable about enjoying it to the full. At a wine bar you are inevitably asked how you like the wine (as is per good manners from a good bartender or sommelier), and perhaps this is daunting to some. It really shouldn’t be! Wine, like any other food or drink, is a matter of taste, and it is ok to disagree about the wine with someone more knowledgeable. What a sommelier really cares about is whether you liked the wine or not. So all you winecurious out there, go wine tasting, share you opinions and perhaps we can see an escalation in the number of good wine bars in town.
Back to Nofo then. There were two things that really made an impression on me: the friendly service (they even helped me carry some heavy stuff in) and the champagne list. There were only three champagnes on the list and only sold by the bottle (a minus on not having any champagne by the glass), but they were good champagnes, with a capital G. Larmandier-Bernier, Francis Boulard and Olivier Horiot, wonderful producers all of them. And the most expesive bottle (Horiot’s Sevé) was 700 SEK, that is a very good price level for Stockholm.
As the only sparkling by the glass was a Prosecco, I opted for a glass of white wine, a Chardonnay from Loire. For the bar’s defense, the Prosecco was at least not main stream, but it still had the overly fruity taste that I personally find a bit disturbing. It was not bad, but just not my style of bubbly. I encourage others to of course try it. And try you can! The bartender was friendly and professional enough to let me taste the wines before making my choice. My Chardonnay was served to the table, perfectly chilled and in a nice glass. We are not talking Zalto, but decent glasses nevertheless. Otherwise, there were around three whites and reds and one rose wine by the glass. This is not that many, but as long as the choices are good, I don’t mind.
As for the ambiance, the place does not stand out that much. I really like the bar, with all bottles nicely presented on the table. It kind of feels like being invited to someones kitchen. I also like the inner yard. The problem with that is only the Swedish weather, but on a nice day it is fabulous.
All in all, I am pleased by the new, friendly addition to the wine-scene in Stockholm. Nofo is definitely a place where I will bring my friends in the summer when they are visiting. Then I will perhaps be able to have some of the wonderful champagnes by the bottle.
Summer in the Nordics is always short. This year it is even shorter. The weather has not been great for me all July. Wherever I have traveled, plus 15 (C) and rain has followed. Or at least that is how it feels to me. I am actually looking forward to the fall, as then I know at least that Cavatast is coming (2.-4.10).
Regardless of the rain, it has been a productive week. I have been working on my “secret” project, which I can now reveal to you is a travel guide to Stockholm. Now that I have enough content ready, I dare to go public about it. So to all you Finns (as the guide will be in Finnish) out there, the Tripsteri Stockholm guide will open later in August, unless I run into some serious technical difficulties. My linguistic targets have already been reached. I must confess, I was very nervous about writing in Finnish, but as this blog, the text started coming out after a while. This is something completely new to me, so be gentle (but honest) with the feedback.
I also found a wonderful new wine bar this week in Stockholm. This is all thanks to my friend Agnes at Yelp, who arranged a social night for all those interested about wine (or just afterwork). Nofo Wine Bar is located in Södermalm and is in connection with the Nofo Hotel. It is a friendly place with a comfortable bar and a courtyard where one can sip wine and eat charcuterie. I will review the place in coming posts, but I must already say their champagne list made an impression. It was short (three different champagnes) but the bottles were all from great producers, like Larmandier-Bernier, Francis Boulard and Olivier Horiot. Boulard and Horiot are some of my favorite grower producers and a place that offers them cannot be bad. No way. The only downside was that none of these were offered by the glass, so I need to go back the coming week with a group (or by myself).
Talking about champagne, we opened (me and M) a bottle of Bereche & Fils Brut Reserve on Saturday and concluded that we have a clear winner for the years value for money champagne. It tasted of mature yellow apples, brioche and fresh citrus. What a wonderful wine and you can order it for just 300 SEK/bottle (if it would not be sold out at the moment) from Gaston. I will for sure be getting some more of these babies when they come back into stock. We also tried a red wine, Selecta, from Almeida Garret, a Portuguese producer we are considering adding to our collection. We have really been impressed by the quality of their wines, even though they are fairly new in the trade (think of what they can achieve with some experience). The Selecta was not necessarily one of my favorites, but I suspect it is due to just not being my style. The taste profile would complement our selection very nicely, so we will keep it in mind. Even though we have been very keen on having solely wines that we like ourselves, it is perhaps not in the long term the best road. We have quite specific tastes.
That was it for this wine week. Enjoy the pictures! I will now retire on the sofa with a box of ice cream and a brainless TV-series to finish of the Sunday with style.
As per tradition, I will start with the weather report. It might seem like an irrelevant part of my weekly posts. But on the contrary, I think it is an important note for setting the right mood. The kind of wine I drink is heavily influenced by the weather. So it is no coincidence I have been drinking a lot of light reds, white and rose this week as it has been HOT. Sweden has been showing it’s best with 25-30 C and sun, and I have been doing my best to enjoy the hot weather with some cooling drinks.
Wednesday we went to check out the second location of our favorite wine bar in town, Gaston at Nordiska Kompaniet. NK is one of the finest department stores in town and the top floor has recently been taken over by the king of Swedish fine dining, Björn Franzen. Gaston wine-bar is also a part of Frantzen’s culinary empire and one of the most notable wine-hangouts in town. While the location in the old town of Stockholm remains my favorite (it also has a more extensive list of wine), the NK location is also a place worth to visit. The style of displaying the wines in fridges along the wall with pricing written with a white marker reminds me of Paris and it’s many wonderful wine bars. So on a rainy day, head up to this comfortable oasis for wine in between shopping. The two go well together (I have experience)!
On Friday we went out for some drinks and Asian food at a new restaurant in town, Lokal Izakaya. The Japanese inspired Izakayas are the new food trend in town. Sushi and Asian inspired dishes combined with some yummy cocktails and a list of Sake makes up for a concept I very much enjoy. Sadly every single Izakaya in Stockholm has the same problem, they are not Izakayas. Don’t get me wrong, I like the restaurants as such. I just don’t like that the concept has been so grossly miss-interpreted. An Izakaya is a simple Japanese eatery, like a tavern or pub, a kind of after work place that serves some food to accompany the drinks. The so called Izakayas in Stockholm remind me more of Asian fine dining than a local. Lokal Izakaya, like the first on the izakaya scene in Stockholm, Shibumi, is a fun restaurant. The cocktails, sashimi, and hot dishes all very satisfying. I was just expecting something more simple.
As many cities in Europe, Stockholm will partly close for summer vacations. July is prime time for Swedes to head to their cottages and travel around in Europe, so many small restaurants and bars close their doors. We went to enjoy the last opening day of Hornstulls Bodega, a wine bar and restaurant close by to where we live. After Gaston, I would say this is THE place to come for wine. We enjoyed some Spätburgunder rose, reds from Loire and an amazing peppery Rioja.
I will miss the Bodega, but the summer will go by fast. Next week we are heading for Helsinki, my home city; to rest, meet friends and relatives, and to drink some more wine of course. The blog will not be taking a holiday, but summer vacation will mean that there will be a slightly slower pace (maybe). And perhaps I have the chance to finally really consider what to do with the look and layout. All ideas and inspiration are more than welcome! Hope a warm and sunny week to you all!